From the Solomon
Islands to Papua: Into
the Heart of Melanesia

The capital of the Solomon Islands, Honiara sits on the northeastern coast of Guadalcanal at the mouth of the Matanikо River. A relatively new city, it grew up around a U.S. military base during and after WWII. In 1952 it superseded Tulagi as the premier city of these islands. Honiara's U.S. War Memorial provides a comprehensive war-history lesson of the area. Today the town is laid-back and relatively tourist free with a real-life atmosphere.

The Florida (Nggela) Islands in the Central Province of the Solomon Islands blend natural beauty and rich history. Once the capital of the British Solomon Islands Protectorate, Tulagi Island, off the south coast, was devastated during fierce 1942 fighting after Japanese occupation. Today, it's a peaceful town known for WWII relics, sunken warships, and wreck diving, offering a quiet reflection on its dramatic past.

Kennedy Island, (also Kasolo or Plum Pudding Island), is a tiny forested islet named after John F. Kennedy. In August 1943, after their craft was rammed by a Japanese destroyer, the crew of PT-109, led by Lieutenant Kennedy, abandoned ship, swam ashore, before making their way to nearby Olasana Island. Kasolo Island's lush rainforests are home to the Solomon Islands fruit dove, the Solomon Islands honeyeater and the Solomon Islands flying fox.

Rabaul, the former capital of New Britain in Papua New Guinea's northeastern tip, is a town with a remarkable volcanic history. Situated inside a flooded caldera and near the active Tavurvur volcano, Rabaul has been rebuilt multiple times, including after the 1994 eruption. Its bustling markets, rich wartime heritage and a strategic harbour make Rabaul an intriguing destination. An observatory oversees the country's volcanic activity.

Madang, a laid-back port town exuding a village vibe, presents a captivating blend of Pacific war history and natural beauty. At the Visitors and Cultural Bureau, WWII artefacts and exhibits recount the battles for this strategic outpost. The surrounding waters host coral reefs teeming with marine life. Rocky hiking trails traverse Mount Wilhelm, offering panoramic views, extending the allure beyond the town.

Manam Island is marked by an active stratovolcano, occasionally emitting ash plumes. The island's rugged valleys, forested crags, villages and cultures coexist in the shadow of this natural colossus. The area boasts numerous coral reefs, and Hansa Bay holds sunken American and Japanese ships, along with bombers and fighter planes. These waters have also witnessed sightings of hammerheads and tiger sharks.

The Sepik River gracefully winds through rainforest and swampland, revealing tribal villages and stilt structures on muddy banks. In these homesteads, traditional ways of life persist with tribal ceremonies, spirit houses, and stories behind intricately carved masks and totems. Crocodiles, symbols of power, coexist with revered birds of paradise like Goldie's and sicklebills, punctuating the landscape with bursts of bright plumage.

Wewak, East Sepik's capital, is a coastal gateway to the vast Sepik River, a winding lifeline through lush sago swamps, nipa palms and tranquil lagoons. Along its banks, stilted villages uphold vibrant traditions, from canoe travel to crafting intricate masks, wood carvings and towering Haus Tambaran spirit houses. Wewak also holds echoes of WWII history, with relics and the Cape Wom Memorial marking Japan's surrender in Papua New Guinea.

Jayapura, Papua's provincial capital, serves as a base to explore the rugged Baliem Valley. Winding trails lead through verdant highlands to secluded waterfalls and saltwater springs. Traditional life endures in tribal villages hidden in the rainforest, featuring religious ceremonies or mock tribal wars. In Jayapura, museums recount the intense WWII battles, where Allied and Japanese forces clashed for control of the Pacific theatre.